How the curry house generation have paved the way for second-generation British-Bangladeshis to create a ‘new-wave’ Bengali cuisine

Brick Lane’s curry houses may be in terminal decline but they laid the pathway for the next generation of British-Bangladeshis to spread their wings and make Bengali cuisine more accessible.

Graam Bangla, Bengal Village, Sonargaon. Just a few eateries for those with refined tastebuds.

The roots of the Bengali restaurant trade in East London can be traced back to the post-World War II era when the first generation of Bengali immigrants arrived in Britain. 

Initially, many worked in the clothing factories of London. However, as this declined in the 1970s and 1980s, a significant shift occurred—many Bengali men and women turned to the hotel and catering trade, particularly the “Indian” restaurant business.

As they settled in Tower Hamlets, particularly around Bethnal Green and Brick Lane, these new arrivals often found themselves in unskilled and semi-skilled work. 

‘Most of us didn’t speak English back then so the only jobs we could do were the hard labour jobs.’ recalls a waiter from Gram Bangla.

The concept of the ‘Indian restaurant’ became popular, providing a pathway for many Sylheti Bangladeshis to open cafes and restaurants. 

By the late 1970s, the Brick Lane area had become predominantly Bengali, replacing the former Jewish community that had moved to the suburbs. 

These restaurants not only provided employment but also helped cement the community’s presence in the area. 

Bengali food, with its distinct flavours and culinary traditions, began to infiltrate British palates.

Unlike Indian cuisine, which features wheat-based flatbreads, Bengali cuisine emphasises rice, the staple carb of Bangladesh. 

Traditional dishes like Hilsa curry and Biryani became popular. Hilsa or Ilish is the national fish of Bangladesh. Also known as a ‘flat herring’, the curry consists of fried fish with turmeric, chillis and more.

By the early 2000s, the area around Brick Lane had become home to the largest cluster of Indian/Bangladeshi restaurants in the UK. 

The catering sector became a significant source of employment for the Bengali community, with over 60% of Bangladeshi men and 20% of Bangladeshi women working in the hotel, restaurant, and catering trades. The industry employed around 85,000 people and served over three million meals a week.

Aftermath of 9/11 and Racism

However, the establishment of the Bengali community was not without its challenges. Following their arrival, the community faced a wave of racially motivated attacks. 

The aftermath of the September 11th attacks in 2001 saw a significant decline in trade, with some restaurateurs reporting a 70–80% drop in business.

Although there was a slight recovery during the Christmas and New Year period, many businesses continued to struggle well into 2003, with revenues still down by 20–30%. 

The decline was attributed to a combination of fewer foreign tourists and a reluctance by white customers to frequent what they perceived as a “Muslim” area.

The Third Generation

While the Bengali community still dominates the ‘Indian’ restaurant sector, there are signs of decline. 

Many iconic Bengali restaurants have closed or been replaced by businesses from other communities. For example, the renowned Bengali restaurant Clifton’s was replaced by a Turkish chain, Efes.

In 2014 there were 35 curry restaurants on Brick Lane, all clustered south of Truman Brewery. By 2019 this had dropped to 20. Most of the curry restaurants (80%) remained restaurants and diversified the food on offer rather than sell up. (ONS, 2011 Census; 2001 Census ; HM Land Registry Open Data)

While the first generation of immigrants saw the restaurant business as a vital means of survival and community building, the younger generation of Bengalis, born and raised in Britain, often do not have the same motivations to continue in the restaurant trade. 

They are moving into other fields, such as the creative arts, seeking careers that do not involve the hard labour of running a restaurant.

Omar, a youth coach, whose father has worked in the restaurant trade for decades and whose two elder brothers also followed in the family business, expressed deep gratitude for the sacrifices made by his ancestors. 

‘I’m thankful to my dad and my grandparents for coming here and making a living through the restaurant trade. Their hard work has given me the chance to pursue my dream without the pressure to support myself through the same hard labour,’ he shared.

‘Back in the 90s, it would have been nearly impossible for someone from my community to even think about working in the Premier League. The hard work of my grandparents and parents has not only supported my ambitions but also helped reshape how our community is viewed and valued. It’s a new era where our culture is respected in many spheres, including sports and beyond.’

The first generation of Bengali immigrants sacrificed stability and faced discrimination, working long hours in tough jobs. Investing their small earnings in businesses and creating job opportunities, allowing the next generation to pursue careers in politics, arts, and sports—fields once out of reach.

The traditional model of Bengali restaurants, long dominated by men both in the kitchen and front of house, is being redefined by initiatives like Oitij-jo Kitchen. 

Founded by Maher Anjum, Oitij-jo Kitchen is a social impact charity that offers Bangladeshi women the opportunity to cook, train, and gain employability skills. 

Unlike the first generation who entered the restaurant trade out of necessity, these women engage in the culinary world as a form of cultural expression and creativity. 

‘The visibility of women was very little and marginalised (in the 1960’s),’ Anjum explains, adding that their model is about providing women with a creative outlet while building a pathway to employment.

Through Oitij-jo Kitchen, traditional Bengali food—typically cooked at home by women—rather than more generic Indian food is being brought to the forefront. Anjum highlights that many of the dishes cooked by these women are ones not usually found in restaurants, preserving a side of Bengali cuisine that has been largely hidden. 

Gentrification and Challenges 

Additionally, gentrification and economic changes in Bethnal Green are driving up rents and changing the demographic makeup of the area, making it more challenging for traditional Bengali businesses to survive.

Shops and restaurants that once catered to the local Bengali population are now changing hands, often replaced by businesses that serve the new demographic.

‘I’ve been living and working here for years and things have changed a lot. It used to be full of Bengali families and businesses, but now it’s getting harder for us to stay. The area’s become more trendy, with new cafes and shops popping up, but that also means rent is higher and many of the old curry houses are closing down.’ says Abdul, a waiter from Gram Bangla. 

However, despite the decline of ‘traditional’ Bengali restaurants, the essence of Bengali cuisine and culture is far from being lost.

In fact, it’s being revitalised in new and innovative ways. Popular cafes with a Bengali twist are emerging, blending modern aesthetics with traditional flavours to attract a diverse customer base. 

Charista and Momlette, two newly established eateries, are prime examples of this shift. Charista, situated on Bethnal Green Road, offers a unique blend of traditional Bengali flavours with a modern twist, emphasising home-cooked dishes and a chic, contemporary atmosphere. With its strong social media presence and authentic Bengali offerings, such as gurer chai and kati rolls, Charista has quickly gained popularity, showcasing how the new generation is redefining Bengali cuisine.

These establishments offer a fresh take on Bengali heritage, serving dishes that nod to their roots while appealing to contemporary tastes. 

This evolution is not a departure from tradition but a creative adaptation, ensuring that Bengali culture remains accessible in a changing Britain.

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